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SURT

SURT is named for its own sourdough starter, 'Sure Dame', which pizzaiolo Giuseppe Oliva — a fourth-generation baker whose family has baked bread since 1941 and whose grandfather ran a watermill bakery for the Italian army — develops for wild yeast activity and deliberate sourness rather than speed. The base is built from five different historic grain varieties, and toppings come from small farms in Denmark and elsewhere in Europe rather than a fixed import list. That combination — an engineered sourdough culture, heritage grains, and a seasonal, farm-sourced topping list, built by a formally trained pizzaiolo who set aside the standard Neapolitan recipe — is the clearest case in this run of the 'pizza contemporanea' definition: dough science and gourmet, seasonal toppings breaking from received rules rather than reproducing them.

Bag Elefanterne 2, 1799 København V · Copenhagen · Pizza contemporanea · est. 2019

A pizza on a perforated peel inside a wood-fired oven, flames bright behind it.
From SURT (@surtcph)

Why it is here

SURT is named for its own sourdough starter, 'Sure Dame', which pizzaiolo Giuseppe Oliva — a fourth-generation baker whose family has baked bread since 1941 and whose grandfather ran a watermill bakery for the Italian army — develops for wild yeast activity and deliberate sourness rather than speed. The base is built from five different historic grain varieties, and toppings come from small farms in Denmark and elsewhere in Europe rather than a fixed import list. That combination — an engineered sourdough culture, heritage grains, and a seasonal, farm-sourced topping list, built by a formally trained pizzaiolo who set aside the standard Neapolitan recipe — is the clearest case in this run of the 'pizza contemporanea' definition: dough science and gourmet, seasonal toppings breaking from received rules rather than reproducing them.

What we looked at

Own sourdough starter, 'Sure Dame', developed for wild yeast activity and acidityFive different historic grain varieties in the baseStone oven built on site by oven-builder ErnestoMaker's family has baked bread since 1941; opened December 2019 in Carlsberg Byen, itself a historic fermentation siteToppings sourced from small Danish and European farms, changed seasonally