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Pizzeria

Modern Apizza

Opened in 1934 as Tony Tolli's coke-fired (a coal byproduct) State Street Apizza and renamed Modern in 1944, the pizzeria is one of the city's 'Holy Trinity' alongside Frank Pepe's and Sally's, but its oven is the editorially interesting exception: it switched from coke to an oil-fired brick oven around 1967 when coke production stopped in New Haven, so it is not coal-fired like its two Wooster Street rivals. William "Billy" Pustari has owned Modern since 1988.

874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511 · New Haven · New haven apizza · est. 1934

No photograph published for Modern Apizza yet.

Why it is here

Opened in 1934 as Tony Tolli's coke-fired (a coal byproduct) State Street Apizza and renamed Modern in 1944, the pizzeria is one of the city's 'Holy Trinity' alongside Frank Pepe's and Sally's, but its oven is the editorially interesting exception: it switched from coke to an oil-fired brick oven around 1967 when coke production stopped in New Haven, so it is not coal-fired like its two Wooster Street rivals. William "Billy" Pustari has owned Modern since 1988.

What we looked at

Oil-fired brick oven, a documented departure from the coal/coke firing of Pepe's and Sally's, since roughly 1967Same family ownership (the Pustaris) since 1988Quoted by name (manager Erica Pustari) on how oil firing changes the bake compared with wood or coal