Is it the flame? The dome? The dough? A scientific study says it’s all of the above. And it’s much more complex (and beautiful) than most of us realize.
The peer-reviewed study published in the Journal of Food Science by researchers from the University of Naples Federico II and the University of Tuscia has confirmed what pizzaiolos have long claimed: wood-fired ovens aren’t just tradition; they’re science-backed perfection.
Researchers decided to explore the soul of Neapolitan pizza. The research uses thermal imaging, electronic eye analysis, and advanced heat transfer modeling to explain exactly why wood-fired ovens still produce the best Neapolitan pizza in terms of texture, flavor, and authenticity.
The paper explored how different ovens – wood-fired, gas, and electric – affect heat transfer, crust chemistry, flavor, and even the risk of burnt spots.
Here’s what they found.
Wood-Fired Ovens Still Set the Gold Standard
- True Neapolitan Pizza requires a wood-fired oven by EU regulation, baking in 60–90 seconds at temperatures above 485°C (905°F).
- The dome can reach up to 500°C, while the pizza bottom caps at around 100°C, thanks to experience pizzaiolo maneuvers like rotating and lifting.
- Crust expansion happens fast: from 0.8 cm to 2.3 cm in under 90 seconds due to moisture evaporation and air pockets.
- Toppings affect temperature dramatically: a white pizza top reaches 180°C; mozzarella barely hits 67°C.
Heat Transfer is Art + Science
Three mechanisms cook a pizza:
- Conduction from the oven floor (especially for the bottom crust)
- Convection from hot air and gases inside the chamber
- Radiation from the dome and flames, especially for the rim and toppings
Radiation contributes 70%+ of the total cooking power in a wood-fired oven. That’s why the dome shape and the pizzaiolo’s movements are so essential.
Gas and Electric Ovens Are Practical But Not As Good
- Gas ovens mimic flame cooking but struggle to maintain consistent dome heat and may produce uneven crust unless managed carefully.
- Electric ovens, while cleaner and more consistent, lack that signature smoky flavor unless specially engineered.
- AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) now certifies electric and gas ovens, recognizing sustainability pressures, especially in cities with wood-fire restrictions.
- Still, many pizzaioli remain purists, insisting on the soul of the wood-fired flame.
Authenticity Can Still Be Sustainable
Wood is the cheapest fuel (€0.15/kg), but the dirtiest in terms of emissions. Studies show PM2.5 emissions are dangerously high prompting regulations in places like NYC, Delhi, and Naples.
Enter soot abatement systems, new electric ovens like the the Scugnizzonapoletano, and solar-powered setups.
In short: pizza can evolve without losing its roots, if it’s done with intention.
Intention Matters
If you’re a pizzaiolo, a pizza lover, or just someone trying to choose the right oven for your restaurant this paper proves what you’ve long known.
Wood-fired ovens deliver tradition and texture. Gas offers flexibility. Electric brings consistency and sustainability. But in the end, what matters most?
The type of heat and the experienced hands that know craft of making great pizza.
Source: Journal of Food Science, “Unlocking the Secrets of Neapolitan Pizza,” Falciano et al., 2024.
Want to be Verified on PizzaSpots? Show us you’re a pizzeria with artisan ovens (wood-fired 🔥 or stone deck), sourdough, and handmade pizza.