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City guide

Lisbon

Portugal · 10 spots selected · last checked 2026-09-18

Lisbon is not the shape Madrid is, and that is the finding. Madrid is an elite pizza city whose every strong candidate is an import; Lisbon's field includes makers who are neither Italian nor working to Italian orthodoxy. Lupita was opened by two Brazilians who use only Portuguese stone-ground flour and say plainly that they are not seeking Neapolitan certification. Jezzus is a Portuguese group on Portuguese flour and a full sourdough starter. Casanova has been running since 2000, a decade and a half before the current wave, and appears on nobody's current best-of list. Hold the conclusion loosely: a Naples-built oven sits in Lupita's room, the consultant came from Brooklyn, and choosing local flour is a sourcing decision rather than a tradition. What can be said today is narrower and still worth saying - Lisbon's pizza is being made by people who came to it from somewhere other than Italy, and the city has not simply bought a Neapolitan franchise.

Population
575,739 (as of 2024-01-01)
Boundary
The concelho of Lisboa. Not Almada, Oeiras or the wider Área Metropolitana.

Selected in Lisbon

Forno d'Oro

Tanka Sapkota built a wood-fired oven on site with volcanic stone and gold leaf brought from Naples, and Público's Fugas describes the natural levain — given to him by Gabriele Bonci — and a kneading process aimed at an airy, tall-crumbed dough he insists is the genuine Neapolitan style, not the thin crispy version fashionable in Portugal. The restaurant has climbed 50 Top Pizza's rankings for several years running (61st in the World 2025 list per Grandes Escolhas), the only Portuguese entry mentioned in the sources opened here.

4 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

M'arrecreo Pizzeria

Owner Pedro Azevedo took an intensive pizzaiolo course in Naples in January 2018 and brought back two classmates to open the pizzeria; NiT reports the Marana oven imported from Italy reaching 480°C, a 90-second bake time cited as one of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana's own rules, and a dough that ferments 16–24 hours. Tasting Table separately reports AVPN certification was subsequently granted.

2 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

Lupita Pizzaria

Lupita was opened in October 2019 by two Brazilians, Marcelo Parente and pizzaiolo Duda Ferreira, and is one of the clearer counter-examples to Lisbon's Italian-import pattern: Observador and NiT both report the founders deliberately distanced the project from 'pizzaria italiana' orthodoxy, using exclusively Portuguese flour (Paulino Horta) in a naturally leavened dough fermented 48 hours, while the electric copper oven itself was still imported from Naples (Izzo brand, 500°C). Brooklyn's Anthony Falco (Roberta's) consulted on the recipes as his first European project.

3 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

La Matta Pizzeria

Diário de Notícias reports the dough is made on site with organic flour from a family producer in Torres Vedras and ferments 26–48 hours, and describes the house style explicitly as a cross between Neapolitan and Roman — thin dough with a fuller rim — rather than either alone, which the DISCIPLINE enum does not have a value for. Pizzaiolo Mario Diaco joined from Italy's Adriatic coast after founder Matteo Bravi's holiday there; the tomato sauce, fior di latte and Bufala Campana DOP are sourced from Naples.

2 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

Retrogusto84

Bruno Cardinale, from a Palermo family that ran several pizzerias, opened Retrogusto84 in 2017 as his first Lisbon pizzeria, and NiT quotes him describing it as carrying more Sicilian influence than his later restaurant: a thinner, crunchier dough, distinct from the taller Neapolitan-leaning dough at his newer Retrogusto Experience. The business's own site confirms the dough is a three-flour blend aged a minimum of 48 hours.

2 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

Valdo Gatti

Valdo Gatti's own site describes its process in detail: 100% Italian organic semi-wholewheat flour, a house lievito madre, hand-harvested salt and cold-pressed organic olive oil, a roughly two-day rise, and pizzaiolos hand-stretching a cornicione. NiT's year-end 2018 round-up of that year's best new restaurants independently confirms a wood-fired oven with a rotating stone. No individual maker is named in any source found.

2 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

Casanova

Casanova is not on the seed list and predates almost every other record found in this city: Time Out Lisboa's own review states that when Maria Paola Porru, an Italian who had moved to Portugal to study cinema in the 1970s, opened it in 2000 on a quay by the Tejo, thin, crispy wood-fired pizza was still uncommon in the city. The pizzeria has occupied the same riverside warehouse space for over two decades, one of only two original tenants (alongside the Lux nightclub) still there.

2 sourcesVerified 2026-09-18

Primo Basílico

Público's Fugas profiled the two Italian founders, Stefano and Massimo, who left jobs in Italy, moved to Lisbon in 2010 and opened a pizza al taglio counter in Alfama in August 2011 — what they call pizza in teglia alla romana, the tray-baked Roman style. The founders are quoted insisting the dough, not the toppings, is the real subject of the format, and that it took time for the traditionally Portuguese neighbourhood to understand a food built around the base rather than what sits on it.

1 sourceVerified 2026-09-18

Jezzus Pizzaria

Observador's dedicated feature names Tiago Jesus, of the family hospitality group Alfredo de Jesus (roughly 40 venues), as the person behind Jezzus, which opened in soft form in November 2022 in Anjos. The oven itself was imported from the Vesuvius area of Italy and built with Vesuvius stone, but everything else is deliberately Portuguese: stone-ground Portuguese flour, a 100% sourdough starter (massa mãe) fermented 48–72 hours, and seasonal, organic ingredients from small and mid-sized national producers.

1 sourceVerified 2026-09-18

Dama e Vagabundo

NiT's opening report describes house pizzas stretched in front of customers at the counter and baked in one of three ovens on site, in a small Baixa storefront that previously housed a sandwich shop. The evidence found is thin — a single 2016 opening piece with no named pizzaiolo or oven type — but it does establish the dough is made on the premises rather than bought in.

1 sourceVerified 2026-09-18

Sources